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Whenever curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This honour has made the family utterly astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small place achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary honour.